Tom’s Experience hiking through Paria Canyon:
Paria Canyon has two main entrances; the Wire Pass and White House trailheads. The canyon is on the top of many lists for classic desert hikes. The distance from Wire Pass to Lee’s Ferry is about 43 miles and allows you too see all of Buckskin Gulch. From White House to Lee’s Ferry it is about 38.5 miles. The hike will take anywhere from about 3 to 5 days. The hike is all downhill following the river but it takes a while because there are very few established trails through the canyon and you spend a lot of time crossing the river. Make sure you wear comfortable shoes that are also comfortable when wet and filled with mud.
In order to spend the night in the Paria Canyon you must obtain a Permit and they are hard to come by since they only allow 20 people to spend the night in the canyon. Also, you must pack any human waste out of the canyon but they provide bags with your permit. The Paria River supposedly deposits the most dirt into the Colorado River of any other tributary. The pioneers said it was too thick to pump and too thin to plow.
Our first day in the canyon the water was a whitish grey color and it was so pretty in contrast with the steep red rock canyon walls. We were later told that the water was coming from Johnson Canyon to give it the neat white color. That night when we stopped for dinner as we watched the river, it started to fill up with small twigs and other debris. When we woke up on day two the water had changed from the pretty white color to a chocolate-milk color. We were told this was water coming from Bryce Canyon National Park and the recent storms. The water was much too dirty to filter and it is best to make it to the natural springs in the canyon walls to get your water. We didn’t even filter the water out of the walls and we felt fine. Make sure you bring a little excess capacity for water because many camps are dry if you don’t camp right next to the springs.
We started our Paria Canyon adventure from the Wire Pass trailhead which is also the same trailhead as the famous Wave. After about 13 miles we reached the confluence of Buckskin and Paria. We decided to leave our backpacks on a raised sand bar and headed up the Paria about a half mile to Slide Rock.
Slide Rock is an interesting rock formation that is similar to an arch but isn’t really an arch. The water goes through and around a giant rock that has fallen from the higher canyon walls. It is a really pretty area.
We then hiked back down river and made it to Big Springs. Big Springs is the biggest spring in the canyon and has a very good flow of water out of the canyon walls. We were able to fill our liter water bottles in about 10 seconds from this spring, which was fast compared to some of the other springs.
We spent the night at a raised campsite across from the Big Spring. On day two we continued down river until we came to the turn off for Wrather Arch. We joked and said the reason they call it Wrather Arch is because most people would “rather” not stop and take the side route to the arch.
Well we left our backpacks on a bank again and took the 2 mile detour up canyon to the very impressive Wrather Arch. It is one of the largest arches I’ve ever seen and the hike through the canyon was very pretty. I would defiantly recommend taking this detour as well if you have the energy. It is doubtful you will ever be that deep in Paria Canyon again.
From there, we continued on to the last reliable spring where we all filled up all of our water bottles. This spring was a lot slower than Big Spring but it was clean which was refreshing after the dirty water we had been walking through.
We continued on to the next camping spot after the spring in hopes of making the mileage on the last day a little shorter. In total we hiked 14 miles on day two but it took us almost 11 hours. The mileage through the river is really slow going.
The last day was from our campsite to Lee’s Ferry. The last day there didn’t have very many river crossings which was nice and there were some trails that we could follow so our hiking pace was much quicker. There are also a few petroglyphs along the trail especially closer to Lee’s Ferry.
The overall mileage with the side trips was about 46 miles. This hike will require a shuttle. Dogs are also allowed but must have a special dog permit and you must carry out their waste as well.
Trail Info: For the Wire Pass Trailhead: from Kanab, Drive east on Highway 89 for 31.1 miles to a dirt road, turn on the right. The dirt road is called House Rock Road and is fairly well maintained but can be impassable when wet. After about 4.5 miles you will see a sign for Buckskin Gulch trailhead, do not stop here. Continue on another 4 miles to the signed Wire Pass Trailhead and park here. There is a lot of parking and an outhouse. For the White House Trailhead: from Kanab, drive east on Highway 89 for 43 miles. Look for the BLM Contact Station sign on the right. The White House trailhead is two miles (3.2 kilometers) down a dirt road that begins at the Information Station. For Lee’s Ferry Trailhead: From Page, AZ, drive south on Highway 89 for 25 miles. Turn right onto Highway 89A and continue for 14 miles. Cross over the Colorado River and pass the Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center on your right. Watch for the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area entrance on your right. Park in the Long Term Parking area to avoid any tickets.
Wire Pass: 37.018977,-112.025285
White House: 37.079656,-111.889683
Slide Rock: 37.008817, -111.866200
Buckskin Paria Confluence: 37.001451,-111.865724
Big Spring: 36.981867, -111.832600
Wrather Arch Turnoff: 36.969383, -111.773033
Last Reliable Spring: 36.953067, -111.724983
Lee’s Ferry: 36.865804,-111.592032
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